Day 118 – From tentsite to Shelter Cove, mile 1904

Aug 16.

We got an early start at the water cache, on trail 6.30am.

Found the trail head for the Oregon Skyline Trail (OST) and started the hike for about 20 miles towards Shelter Cove. A shop for resupply, potentially a shower, laundry and some hot food were waiting for us.

We did 10 miles by 10 and walked a bit further to the Whitefish Horse Campground for tap water and an early lunch break in the shade.

Continued through the heat and humidity. We walked behind a family riding horses on the OST for quite a while. The trail was so dusty… Dust everywhere and the horses created even bigger clouds of dust.

But the trail was easy to walk and we made good progress towards Shelter Cove. The Oregon Skyline Trail is an alternate to the PCT. We had expected better views – at the end it was again lots of trees and some lakes with mosquitoes.

The last section just before Shelter Cove was beautiful – following a river leading into Shelter Cove.

With just 20 miles today, we made it early enough to Shelter Cove for all the errands we had planned. We ran into Happy Hermit leaving the resort already – he had been taking a dip in the lake instead of a shower and was heading back to trail.

sdr

Day 117 – From tentsite to tentsite, mile 1876

Aug 15.

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We got up at 5.30am and continued our chat with Excel during breakfast. She would leave later since she only planned 8 miles for today. She had been off trail for some days due to the smoke and was slowly increasing miles again.

We left at 6.30am. We had amazing views on Mt. Thielsen. With the smoke and a cloudy sky, the morning sun offered some nice photo opportunities.

We took water 8 miles in at Thielsen creek 1854. It would be a long water carry, took 3.5 liters for the next 22 miles.

After the lunch break at mile 1863 at 2pm at the Maidu lake junction, we had several milestones waiting… the highpoint of the PCT in the states Oregon and Washington at about 7500 feet as well as the 3000 km marker.

Considering the overall PCT highpoint at Forester Pass in the Sierra at around 13000 feet, this is really not so much…

Nice that major milestones are even marked in the metric system….

When you walk on the PCT and suddenly run into a group of hikers, there is either trail magic with free sodas or beer to be expected… or cellphone coverage. 🙂

cof — Who cares about an amazing view if you can have internet access….

Continuing on, we had an increasing humidity and even a few drops rain…

With the limited water availability today, we had to push on to the next source and camped at a water cache at dirt road at mile 1876, the crossing with Skyline trail.

30 miles today.

Day 116 – From Crater Lake to tentsite, mile 1846

Aug 14.

Got up in time to be at the Mazama village store opening at 7am for a first breakfast.

We got some donuts and coffee started hiking towards the Rim Village around 8am. We got offered a ride up but with only place for one, Mermaid took the ride and our packs with it. So we could slackpack quickly the steep 3-4 miles up to the crater rim.
What a view!

Up there we met up with Mermaid again and got our packs. Twerk did a crater photo session, we watched and joined later for a group shot – unfortunately not the one he would publish later.

Afterwards breakfast in the Crater Lake Lodge – never miss out an opportunity to eat.

cof — Delicious french toast with bacon strips and some extra scrambled eggs….

We finally started hiking around 11.30am with our bellies full. Mermaid decided to stay back for another zero to watch sunrise at Crater Lake tomorrow.

We followed the Rim Trail around the crater. It is an alternate to the PCT. But since the PCT is closed here, everyone is taking this scenic alternate. The trail was steeper than expected and passed by parking lots for the day tourists every couple of miles.

Made it to the first water cache where the rim trail joins the PCT again around 3pm, lunch break there.

Hiked on to the next water cache at mile 1846, group of hikers trail magic. Met up with Excel again – we had been hiking with her and others in a bigger groups for several weeks but had not seen her since the Sierra.

We had a very nice evening – dinner together and quite a lot to chat about – catching up on the last weeks.

Day 115 – From Snow Lake to Crater Lake / Mazama Village, mile 1820

Aug 13.

Waking up around 5.30am with two guys cowboy camping just around our tents, we left quietly and early without breakfast. Had breakfast later on trail with a great view.

Hiking on towards the famous Crater Lake and Mazama village, the nearby campground. We tried to push it to make it early enough to pick up our resupply packages, take a shower, do laundry and have dinner. Thruhiking can be really stressful… :-p

Soon we came to the 1800 miles marker… With the daily mileage of 25+ miles, we are hitting a marker every four days. Miles are flying… time is flying…

Watched a chipmunk munching on a mushroom for a while…

The trail led through another burnt forest area. With all the sadness of dead trees, these landscapes have their own beauty… On hot days you realize how much you miss the shade from the trees.

Shortly after, we entered the Crater Lake National Park.

Coming into Mazama village, we efficiently got everything done and even had dinner with Spirit Kick in the Annie Creek restaurant. We went to the campground after dark and pitched our tents. It would not be a quiet night. A couple got into a fight in the nearby RV camping area. Shouting, crying, a woman calling for help. I was getting ready to round up other hikers to head over to the RV when I heard already other RV campers knocking the RV door. The fighting stopped for a while, but the shouting continued. I expected police to show up any minute. At the end, the fighting stopped.

Day 114 – From tentsite to Snow Lake, mile 1794

Aug 12.

Left tentsite after a quick breakfast at 6.25am. Water would be difficult today – we made an early stop after 6 miles to fill up. A bit below 10 miles at 10am. Shortly after, we had the biggest climb of today with 1300 feet done and 11 miles in.

The trail led through some burnt forest areas. I would see that a lot in the weeks to come. Oregon had seen very bad forest fires in 2017 – most PCT hikers had to skip major parts of Oregon last year.

Lunch break at 1pm at Christie’s spring at mile 1782 with 17 miles done. Good progress. The vertical profile of the trail in Oregon is rather easy.

cof

The dust of the trail mixed with ash from the fires sticking on my legs due to the sunscreen… and on days without much water, this is also how I go into my sleeping bag (liner 🙂 ) in the evening…

But this night, we found some spot for the tents with Spirit Kick at 6.30pm at Snow Lake at mile 1794.

sdr

29 miles today.

In the dark around 10pm, more hikers came to Snow Lake. We woke up with them shuffling around with their bright headlamps… To find them cowboy camping all around our tents in the next morning… 🙂